For a few days out of each year the quiet, colonial backwater town of Paucartambo comes to life. It is suddenly overflowing with thousands of visitors, spectators who come to see and be a part of one of South America’s most vibrant and fascinating fiestas.

For five days, ( starting on the 15th of July), thousands of devotees hold festivals in honor of the Virgen del Carmen, known locally as Mamacha Carmen, patron saint of the mestizo population.  Dance groups, all magnificently masked and costumed in accordance with their respective customs, accompany the Mamacha in a huge parade, gaily dancing down the city streets. Behind them the entire population of the town gathers quietly, forming itself into a pious mass bearing candles, flowers and other offerings. It is a colorful mix of Andean pre-Columbian ceremonies and Catholic religion in which many ancient gods and rites are honored.

The Virgin del Carmen (the virgin of Mount Carmel) is a particular apparition of the Mother of Jesus. Images of the Virgin always show her dressed in brown and tan, wearing a flat crown, and holding the Infant Jesus; both of them hold scapulars in their hands. It is said that all those who die while wearing the blessed scapular of the Lady will be saved from the fires of Hell, no matter how great their sins.

The Spanish introduced the custom of paying homage to the Virgin. The festival comes from the Old World, where the Virgin was honored in seaports as Stella Maris. The tradition has its origins in the Old Testament, when the prophet Elias retreated to a cave in Mount Carmel in Israel. Many centuries later, hermits following in Elijah's footsteps asked for the protection of the Virgin of Carmen. Mariners and fishermen everywhere soon adopted her as their patron saint.

There is a legend that tells of how the festival first came to Paucartambo: long ago, every year during the first days of July, a wealthy woman called Felipa Begolla would always come to Paucartambo to trade goods. She would come with her mule train laden with goods from her homeland, which she exchanged for Paucartambo’s produce.

One year on July 16th, while she was unpacking her bundles, Felipa found the head of a beautiful woman radiating rays of light lying among the pots and pans. When she tried to cry out, she found that she could not speak, and when she tried to run she was unable to move. Then the lovely head spoke to her, calming her fears and telling her that her name was Carmen.

Felipa put the head on a fine silver dish that she had been carrying with her to trade and, as the head glowed brilliantly, a crowd of muleteers and neighbors gathered around it. A carpenter was commissioned to carve a wooden body for the head and, mounted on an elaborate litter, the Virgin was carried to the local church where her miraculous image was placed on one side of the main altar.